As we were driving through some beautiful countryside we came around a corner and saw a magnificent ruin which towered over the landscape. It looked fantastic so we decided to stop and take a few photos. As we walked around the outside we saw that it was the ruins of an abbey called Tintern and you were able to go and visit. It was too good to not go in and have a look but as we were there before opening time we had a coffee in a quaint little coffee shop nearby. We haven't been able to do this much as we have been on such a tight schedule we haven't really taken advantage of pulling over at any time but we had left quite early and had time.
This Abbey was founded in 1131 by The Lord of Chepstow, Walter fitz Richard of Clare. It was colonised by a small order of monks from France and at first they would have lived in wooden buildings but by mid 12th century a small stone church had been built. The monks placed an insistence of poverty and rejecting all wealth and luxury, therefore to ensure full contemplation abbeys were situated in isolated areas away from all towns and people. Further growth of the monastic community led to an expansion of the abbey and by 1269 the huge Gothic church had begun and was consecrated in 1301. It is this Gothic remainder that is breath taking as you walk through the site.
As we walked through the first part of the abbey it is amazing how beautiful parts of it are and then you walk through into the main part and I was blown away! It is enormous and just opens up to this magnificent structure that even with it being a ruin we could see how beautiful it would have been. Dare I say it was like a "religious experience"! The enormity of the walls to have been constructed in over the time was hard to believe. No photos would ever be able to accurately show how extensive the buildings would have been or how gorgeous the stone work was.
After about half an hour we resumed our journey onto Wales. As we were driving the highlighted route that Doris was taking us we were welcomed back into England! So I then spent the next little while trying to work out exactly where we were and where the border of Wales and England crossed in the trusty Britain Road Atlas that our friend Jo Power had given us. Thanks Jo! After I had worked it out I thought this might give me another chance at the Welcome to Wales sign as we would be reentering Wales at some stage later in our journey. Well again that wasn't to be.
As soon as we drove into Wales the countryside changed and we saw a different type of landscape and vegetation which was quite amazing. You wouldn't believe it could change so much.
We arrived at our accommodation in Betws - y - Coed and were met by a very enthusiastic host. More stairs to another small room but I am seeing that this is what B&Bs are all about.
We decided to walk into the village, Mark our host explained that it was only a short walk across the main road, down the hill, go through the gate and along the path between the fields, over the bridge, over the railway and past the information centre and you are there!
It was drizzling but that was ok as we just wanted to get our bearings and see what was in the village but as we walked around the rain got heavier and the time got later so we decided to take refuge in the pub. We were sorting out what to do for dinner and I thought why not have an early dinner so as not to have to walk back into town in the rain! Great idea except it was only 5 o'clock! Even we don't do the nana dinner time no matter what. So another stroll in the rain to kill some time and back to the pub for dinner. Back to our accommodation and with no WiFi or internet, it was an early night.
DAY 2
We woke to a grey day but not raining so decided to go in and see Conwy Castle and the walled city of Conwy. I am glad we are early risers as we are one of the first people there. Another wonderful interpretation of an ancient site. Conwy Castle was one of a series of castle built in north Wales by King Edward I. It was begun in 1283 and finished in 1287. Along with the castle and built as a single entity are the town walls which surround the borough which was established in the castle's shadow.
The castle was designed as two separate wards that could be defended separately in an emergency, eight towers crown the curtain walls. Four of the towers have turrets and these are part of the area that surrounded the inner ward and the royal apartments. These remain well preserved and remain almost unaltered fro their 13th century arrangement. It is an impressive site. As you walk the site you are enveloped in the aura of what was in Medieval times. As time went on the castle did undergo renovations to accommodate a new leaded roof in 1347.
The castle had minor renovations through the 15th and 16th and came through attempts at destruction and remained virtually intact and from the 18th century it came to the attention of interested people and with a road bridge and the railway in the 19th century visitors increased and the preservation and restoration of the town and walls gained impetus. It is now inscribed on the World Heritage List as a historic site of outstanding universal value, and I can certainly see why.
We spent a good 2 hours exploring the site and going through the various areas of the castle. Up onto the walls, into the towers and it was time well spent. The castle had wonderful views across the whole town and across the water to Llandudno. It would be any young boy's idea of heaven. I could just imagine our two boys when they were younger really enjoying the site not for it's history but for the adventure they would be able to imagine running in and out of all the towers etc. I even climbed one of the towers as I couldn't miss the experience of seeing what would have been seen hundreds of years before.
Our next stop was Plas Mawr an excellent example of an Elizabethan Town House. We bought this as a combined ticket with the castle and while Peter just wandered through I did the audio guide thing as well as talking to the volunteer guides about the way the house has been interpreted. I know but I just can't help myself.
This experience was totally different to the one we had just experienced. This was a house which had ben brought back to life as it would have been in the 16th century using authentic furniture and props that relate to the time the house was owned by Robert Wynn. As I walk through each of the rooms the commentary on the audio guide is spoken using the voices of actors playing the parts of people who would have worked and lived in the house at the time of interpretation. It is great because if you don"t want to listen you can skip that particular part and move on.
The house stayed in the Wynn family descendants until the late 17th century and then it was subdivided and rented out for various purposes. In 1887 the Royal Cambrian Academy of Art leased the house and maintained it for almost 100 years but by 1993 the house was in need of extensive repair and conservation. It was after this that the property was placed in state care and Cadw the historic environment of the Welsh Assembly Government began a 4 year programme of renovation that included furnishing the rooms as they would have been in 1665.
A great site which I thoroughly enjoyed visiting. Next stop was a bite of lunch at a local tearoom.
We then did the walls walk which takes you from the harbour of the city right the way around to the castle. It has spectacular views over the whole city and was again well worth the effort.
After another big day we went back to our B&B for a bit of blog writing and then back into town for dinner. Another day is done and the time goes by so quickly.
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