Bath Walking Day

Our day starts early by walking the 15 minutes into the centre of Bath. We have a coffee while we wait for the free walking tour of Bath that starts at 10.30. This tour is with the Mayor of Bath’s trained Honorary Guides. The assigned meeting point is outside the Pump Room Restaurant. I am looking all over for the sign expecting an A frame style but it is a permanent sign just outside the entrance. 

We meet our guide Michael who does the introduction and as there are a lot of people we split into 3 groups and we stay with Michael which seems to me a good thing as I immediately like his style. We start at the front of the Baths and he gives a very good commentary about the history of the Baths.

We walked most of the streets of Bath with our guide regaling us with stories of prominent people who helped to develop Bath and the many beautiful buildings that you find there. The Guild Hall has a long history of being planned and approved and then not being built then another architect gets involved and the plans are approved but the most curious thing is that every architect involved is called Thomas which our guide does a good job of making a joke of.

As we continue our walk it is impossible to remember everything Michael is telling us as there is so much information. So I will include some of the highlights. 

The window tax was interesting. During one period in Bath the tax you paid was for how many windows your house had. This replaced the chimney tax as when the tax collector came to count the chimneys nobody would answer the door so they couldn't count how many fireplaces the household had, so the taxes weren't getting paid. Along comes the window tax because you don't have to go inside to see how many windows a house has do you? 
To get around this some houses bricked up windows and others moved the windows closer together as this then only counted as one window if they were a certain measurement apart. In Australia this might have been when the "glass tax" was perhaps feared even though it never came to our shores.

A bricked in window

The windows with the width shortened 

The original width of the windows.

Queen's Square is where we meet a person of influence in Bath, John Wood a prominent architect and builder of the time. Queen's Square is  a square of Georgian houses which was designed by John Wood, the Elder as a way of restoring Bath to it's former glory as one of the most significant and important towns in England. Bath is famous for it's Georgian architecture which is all around. 

Part of the Queen's Square

This follows through to the Royal Crescent, The Circus and most of the other streets in Bath. John Wood understands that polite society enjoy "promenading" so he makes his streets wide with raised pavements and a centrally designed garden.

No 1 Royal Crescent

Part of the Royal Crescent

 Another of the well known identities is Beau Nash, who became Master of Ceremonies at the spa town of bath during the 18th century and played a leading role in making Bath the most fashionable resort in 18th century England. As self appointed MC he would organise balls with musicians, escort unaccompanied wives, match ladies with appropriate partners and regulate the gambling that was taking place. all in all what was called a "dandy".

It is easy to see why Bath was the place to be in the 18th century with a lifestyle that centred around a life full of privilege, gambling, "taking the waters" and being seen. It also inspired many artists and writers, among them Jane Austen whose writing is all about this period and the lifestyle that abounded in Bath at this time. 

We have lunch at an institution in Bath - Sally Lunn's Buns. This tearoom has been trading since 1780 in the same location. it is in a lane way not far from Bath Abbey but it was a little difficult to find at first. A very nice savoury bun was had by Peter and myself.

Next was a visit to Bath Abbey which dominates the square around the Roman Baths area. It is an imposing site and the architecture is magnificent. No photo could do it justice but I did try. I did the Abbey by myself as Peter wasn't interested so i think he just had a walk around and a sit down.

It is beautiful inside and while I took some photos they aren't great but I have the memory. One of the reasons I wanted to visit is to see the dedication to Governor Phillip which is in the Abbey. That was my first port of call. While I was there I spoke to a lovely gentleman who was a guide there about Governor Phillip and he told where he was buried which was in Bathhampton which is a village a couple of miles out of town. We chatted for while about Australia and our trip and he gave me a couple of tips for things to do in Bath as well as a couple of restaurant tips as well.

Governor Phillip Dedication in Bath Abbey

Stained glass windows in Bath Abbey

After I left the Abbey and found Peter we went for a walk in the Parade Gardens which are right in the heart of Bath. It is a lovely garden right by the River Avon and has good views of Pulteney Bridge and Weir. We thought you could just walk in but it cost a pound! Peter said that nothing is free in Bath and I think he was pretty right. The views were good and it is a well cared for park which was popular during the Georgian era for promenading because it is close to Orange Grove which was the place to be seen back then.

Parade Gardens

Pulteney Weir

Orange Grove Monument

After walking all day we go back to the hotel and decide to go to one of the recommended restaurants from my mate in the Abbey for dinner. When we get there they are booked out so we decide to go to the Pump Room Restaurant which is close by. 

Very nice meal and I "take the waters" in the form of a Bath gin and tonic. Very nice it was too. off to bed for another big day of walking tomorrow.